European Journal of Charles K. Landis

Founder of Vineland

Matzen Castle, Sept. 14, 1874.

Wakened up before daylight. Read Contarini Fleming, by Disraeli. Walked to Brixlegg with Grohman before breakfast, and hired a carriage to drive Mrs. Grohman to Schwarz to see the old things at the antiquary's. Had a nice carriage, with two horses and a driver. When we got there, found that Mrs. Grohman approved of very few things, but did approve of the candlesticks I had bought for festive occasions at home. It will look very pretty. Dined at the Post Hotel. Sent my card to the Norwegian poet Bjarnsen, who was stopping at the hotel. He has been there with his family for several seasons. He shortly came down. A large, fine looking man, massive head, light complexion and sanguineous temperament. A good face. I was curious to know if the report that had been published in America to the effect that he would take a colony to Vineland was true. Mrs. Grohman acted as interpreter. He said that since he had been known to fame, all sorts of reports were published about him, none of which were true. He had seen this report, but did not know how it had originated. He expects to spend the winter in Italy. Count Enzenberg came up and spoke to Mrs. Grohman, after which we left the hotel and she executed some little commissions. We also walked through the cemetery of the old convent, a very interesting place. We had been there on our former visit to Schwarz. We then decided to drive to the old convent of St. Georgenberg in the mountains, on the other side of the Inn. Many pilgrimages are made to this convent. It was founded by a knight who, whilst he was traveling past the spot saw a vision. We crossed over the river, and leaving the carriage at a little village had to ascend the mountain on foot, for about 1200 feet, enjoying magnificent views on all sides. We went into the church which was magnificently decorated in Roccoco style, and also had some good paintings. Mrs. Grohman explained to me the different styles of art. In the convent we had coffee and bread and butter. It is occupied by monks. It is located in a wildly remote situation on top of a great rock, with a roaring torrent at its base and surrounded by mountains. In the wall near the church we saw several remains of old Roman architecture, which had been used in its construction. We started to descend the mountain in the fall of the evening, and whilst going down mistook our way, but we met a shepherd boy who directed our steps aright, and then kindly hovered round us until we had descended. When we got to the hostelry, where our carriage was waiting, we heard the sounds of music and dancing. This was a wedding. We went upstairs and looked at the dancers. After this we drove home, where we arrived at about 9 o'clock. Here I found letters from Mr. Burke, and from Clive in India. This letter confirmed the information that my wife had left my home and taken my children away.

Sept. 15, 1874.

Wakened up very early and read Contarini Fleming, a beautiful creation. After breakfast Mrs. Grohman made a catalogue of the old things I had collected and also gave me some directions about my trip to Bazen, Verona, Sagoe, Garda and Venice. The principal of a Horticultural school at Bozen, the great fruit-growing region of the Tyrol, visited Mrs. Grohman about laying the grounds out around the castle. I am anxious to visit this school. Some good people may also go from that region to Vineland. After dinner walked with Mrs. Grohman and children to the town of Reith, on the plateau above Matzen. We had passed through it on a previous excursion. We went into the garden of an inn and had some milk punches, a new thing in Tyrol. I had made them out of cherry brandy, which is here called Kinhe-wasser. There were several dogs in the garden, and when I threw one of them a piece of bread, two of them got to fighting, and alarmed the ladies very much. Two of the castle cats followed us on this road like dogs. I had never seen such a sight before. Returned in the fall of the evening. After tea spent the time in pleasant conversation until near 12 o'clock. This is to be my last night at present. Got Dolphie to get me a good watch on the same pattern as his own. In the evening he decorated an old German lamp of iron that I had bought, in geometrical lines.

Matzen Castle, Sept. 16, 1874.

In the morning whilst I was in bed, reading, and Grohman was fast asleep, Baron Sclenoor von Karrolafeld, a major in the Austrian army, burst into the room. He was one of the expected visitors. He wakened up Grohman in a very jolly way. After breakfast I walked with Mrs. Grohman in the grounds for the last time. Perhaps not. Still in the hope of meeting this charming woman and her family again I owe them much. A month of comparative happiness rescued from my otherwise sad life, and I will hereafter owe them my most pleasant memories. Went over to the baths. Whilst waiting for a bath, had a glass of beer. On the lid of the mug out of which I drank was the following inscription: "Life in strange countries does not please me any more; the heart is always sorrowful and the purse empty." These mugs have lids and pretty pictures and inscriptions upon them. Returned to the castle and hastily packed up. Went down to dinner and time passed so pleasantly in conversation that I had to hurry off in order to catch the 4 o'clock train. Stanchie gave me a beautiful pencil sketch of Matzen, upon which she had been engaged several days. My things were brought down, I bid the family all goodbye. Mrs. Grohman walked with me to the gate of the grounds, bid me farewell and turned back. I watched her retreating figure as tho it might be the last time. She looked back. I raised my hat. She disappeared, and I hurried out into the world-on to Italy, leaving behind me many regrets, and nothing but pleasant memories. William Baillie Grohman met me at the R. R. station. He is going to accompany me as far as Bazen. Stopped at Haal, but sent my baggage on to Innspruck. We did not get to the same hotel I stopped at with Mrs. Grohman. Went to the old antiquary's and bought a few old things. Then went with Grohman, who expected to find a chest, but it had been sold. We then returned to the hotel and had supper. There was a party of fourteen young men in the coffee room who had assembled to give a farewell treat to one of their companions who was about to leave the place. They sang very well, and recited a number of pieces with great talent. Went to bed at 12 o'clock, rather heavy hearted.

Hall, Tyrol, Sept. 17.

Decided not to go to Innspruck by cars, but to drive there. Went around the town with Grohman. Visited the church and heard the grand and solemn music of the funeral service. In the vast and magnificent building it sounded nothing less than sublime. When I came out several companies of soldiers marched by through the picturesque old streets. Hall is one of the oldest and least changed towns in Tyrol. We went rummaging around in search of old things. Heard of one place where there were some old pictures, but the man having the key had left. Grohman found several fine pieces of old iron for Matzen. Drove to Innspruck through a grand old row of poplars. The same that I had driven along on a previous occasion. Stopped at the Golden Sun Hotel. Went to the antiquaries' to see about some things I had bought. Found a number of good things, which I bought. Grohman also bought some. Several of the pictures which I purchased are of great antiquity. I procured a beautiful little ebony box, inlaid with ivory, of the Renaissance period. I sent it to Mrs. Grohman for her cigarettes. After a very interesting time in Innspruck about the old things, we left in the train at 6 o'clock P. M. for Bazen, through the Brenner Pass, along the same that we had traveled before, when going to the Dolomites, and arrived at 12 o'clock A. M. We stopped at the Angel Hotel. I am now near Italy. I see the Italian names, and sometimes hear the language, and feel as though I were getting away from the lovely Tyrol.

Bazen, Sept. 18, 1874.

Wakened up before day-break. Walked out in the town before breakfast. Found it full of arcades. Water running through the street, from the mountains, and people washing their clothes in the streams. Had breakfast with Grohman, who got up late. Went into the market and bought some fruit, grapes, figs, and peaches. Got two newspapers from home. Grohman went out and called upon Dr. Kinselle, who returned with him to our rooms. The Dr. is a lawyer by profession, and also an agriculturist. He went with us to see the fruit packing rooms of the agricultural company, andschool of the place, where packing of fruit was attended to. It was thoroughly well done. Apples were wrapped up in papers and packed in straw, both in boxes and barrels. They are sent to Vienna, North Germany, Russia, and England. They send off ten carloads a day. Went to the gardens of the painter . Saw the fig, the pomegranate and the grapes growing. The painter invited us to his studio. Hope to go. After this, found out a dealer in old things, and made some valuable selactions with Grohman-paintings, old furniture, and other objects. Bought some statues and paintings for the Catholic Church of Vineland. Grohman says this is the greatest place he has met with in all his life. Dined at German Crown Hotel. After this called upon Dr. Kinselle, who desired us to taste his native wine. It was excellent. He informed us that their agricultural society has land which is worked by students under a principal and assistants. They work for nothing, in order to learn the business. The Government assists. (Mem: Frame a law for the state of New Jersey that where agricultural societies organize a working department with such objects, that such societies receive assistance from the state.) Will inquire further into the particulars of it. Also went through a fruit preserving and pickling establishment. Fruit is preserved in mustard, and it is excellent. The mustard is prepared in melted sugar and wine, % mustard. This would be a great business in the U. S. Returned to our rooms and retired at 11 1/2 o'clock.

(TO BE CONTINUED)

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