European Journal of Charles K. Landis
Founder of Vineland
Paris, August 11, 1874.
Called upon Genestal & Delzons at 10 o'clock and again at 12. Also on my banker, Drexel Hayes & Co. Spent the afternoon in my room. Dined in the Passage Jeoffroy at another place for five francs. In the evening went to a Cafe Chautant with Ryland. Retired at 12 o'clock.
Wednesday, August 12.
Grohman arrived in the morning whilst I was dressing. Brought me letters. One from Burk, another from Cline (?). Called upon Genestal & Delzons and gave final orders for advertising. Spent the day with Grohman in walking about Paris. Left in the train at 4.25 P. M. for Epernay, the centre of the Champagne wine district. Stopped at the Hotel Europe. Had a bottle of genuine Epernay wine; price five francs; good. Had an excellent dinner. A lot of French officers were having a jolly time dining by themselves. After dinner went to a French cafe and had some coffee. Grohman and I had maraschine-excellent. After that went to a Cafe Chautant. Heard some good music. Took a share in a raffle and lost. Returned to hotel at 10.30 P. M. Epernay, August 13, 1874.
Rose early and walked out in the market. It was a fruit and vegetable market and was excellent. It was held in the open square and women sat on the ground. Breakfasted-simple cafe au lait. Went out with Grohman to visit a wine vault. Visited that of Mr. G. Rousillon. Saw the proprietor himself. He took us through his vaults and showed us the different processes, and they were very interesting. We tasted different wines, some perfectly natural, which I liked better than I expected. Taking a bottle of wine in his hand from his cellar, he took me into his house and we drank the wine and ate bread. I gave him some business hints about introducing his brand in America. Also gave him the name of Swaby, on Walnut St. below Fourth, Philadelphia. It is wonderful what big tunnels of cellars are cut through the chalk rock. He made us each a present of a map, showing that Epernay is the centre of the Champagne district. The map shows the names of celebrated wines, Verzenay, etc. Mr. Rousillon spoke generally of the condition of France, and in a hopeful way. His English was perfect. We had a delightful interview with him. We left and visited the large cellars of Moet and Co. This firm employs an immense number of workmen. We were shown through by one of the workmen. The other vaults and manufactory are evidently supervised more by the proprietor than that of Moet and Co. Returning we passed by some of the magnificent villas of the proprietors of the different vaults. They seem to argue that in Epernay it is a profitable business. At the hotel champagne is sold at from five to seven francs a bottle (that is from $1.00 to $1.40), a genuine article.
We returned to the hotel. Had Mr. Dynerny at breakfast and then hired a man, horse and wagon to drive us to Rheims. I wanted to go through the vineyards and see the country. We left at 1.30. Our nice hotel charges moderate. At the hotel in Epernay the cooking is excellent. We passed through a highly cultivated and beautiful country. To one it presented a novel sight, with its vineyards, meadows and windmills. We went into a vineyard where a lot of people were at work. The vines are planted close together and the grapes are small. Plants not more than eighteen inches apart. They were clipping the tops off. There had been a late frost, which had injured many of the grapes. Arrived at Rheims at 5.30 P. M. and visited the old cathedral. Statuary poor. Some of the work good. Had no time to see much of Rheims. Left at 7:30 for Challon and Munich.
August 14, 1874.
Been travelling all night. All day in the cars. Passed through Strausburg into Germany. Arrived at Munich at 8 o'clock. Had supper and went to an open air concert. Returned at 11 o'clock and went to bed.
August 15, 1874.
Rose early. Went out for a walk through Munich with Grohman. Raining hard. At 10.30 left by the railroad for Matzen Castle, at Matzen. Scenery along the line beautiful. Arrived at the old Castle of Matzen at 4 o'clock. Mountains around covered with snow; hundred of streams pouring down the mountain sides. Raining hard.
Interesting family. Mrs. Grohman a very young and beautiful looking lady, a governess and three fine daughters from twelve to sixteen. Deferred going over the castle until next day. Spent the afternon and evening talking with the ladies. Roomed with Grohman in a fine, large room overlooking valleys, old castles, stream and mountains, and village. Retired at 10 o'clock. Post Office address of Matzen Castle is Brixlegg, Tyrol, Austria.
August 16, 1874-Sunday.
Raining hard. Rained all day. Glad of it, as it enabled me to enjoy Mrs. Grohman's conversation, which is lively, elegant, interesting and instructive. She has traveled a great deal and seen a great deal, and though she is the mother of seven children, five of whom are living, and she has had a great deal of trouble, she does not look over thirty.
In the day went to a bathing establishment and took a bath. It is iron water and much resorted to. Talked over projects of excursions and retired at 10.